In early April of this year, the couple Annukka Pekkarinen and Sigurður Jónsson (Finland-Iceland) invited the Pueblo Kawésqar Foundation to participate in a unique gathering of Indigenous youth from far-flung regions such as Patagonia and Greenland. This meeting took place aboard their vessel, the sailing boat Byr, following a special route that departed from Iceland and headed towards Greenland, the largest island in the world, where the siblings Pamela and Francisco González Álvarez, representatives of the Foundation, would join the expedition.

After months of preparation, during which crucial aspects such as accommodation, flights, and participant involvement were organised, along with simpler details like warm clothing for the polar summer and seasickness tablets, the team faced the need for flexibility due to unpredictable weather. Greenland, in a particularly challenging year, presented large amounts of floating ice along the coast and high-pressure conditions that complicated sailing, potentially resulting in closed ports.

The initial plan underwent several changes. Just two days before the journey commenced, the meeting point had to change, as reaching Kulusuk airport would not be possible. Instead, the González siblings would fly directly to Reykjavik (Iceland), awaiting calmer seas before setting sail. These changes also altered the proposed maritime route.

The journey began at Zurich Airport in Switzerland, where the González siblings had been visiting family and participating in Foundation activities. Their first stop was Copenhagen, a city they took the opportunity to explore, enjoying a traditional herring lunch by the river and visiting the Lego Museum along with other attractions in the old town. That evening, they flew to Keflavik Airport in Iceland, where they were welcomed by Annukka and photographer Isley Reust. However, the first anecdote of the trip occurred when one of the bags, Francisco's, did not arrive. After notifying the airline, they retrieved the luggage in Kulusuk seven days later.

Due to storms in the strait, the group was unable to set sail the following day. Instead, they decided to explore the city of Reykjavik, visiting monuments such as Hallgrímskirkja church and Harpa Concert Hall while Francisco took the chance to buy clothes and provisions that had been lost in his luggage. They spent the night aboard the sailing vessel, hoping for improved conditions for departure, which was finally predicted for midday the next day.

On the third morning, the siblings enjoyed a bath in the thermal waters of Waterworld alongside Annukka and her two small daughters, who were also excited for the voyage. Finally, on Friday 9th August, after a birthday call to their father, the sailing vessel Byr set sail from Iceland to cross the Greenland Strait, covering 736 km from Keflavik to Tasiilaq, a distance comparable to that between Punta Arenas and Puerto Edén in Patagonia.

The three and a half days of sailing were marked by rough seas and some seasickness, which the crew countered with board games, conversations during shifts, and meals, during which Pamela showcased her culinary talents, delighting everyone on board. Icebergs covered the entrance to the bay of Tasiilaq, and the Byr made its way through the stunning blue scenery, as humpback whales, seagulls, and local youth boats welcomed them. After four hours of navigating around icebergs to approach the port, the crew found refuge in a nearby bay to spend the night.

On Tuesday 13th August, six days into the journey, the crew of the Byr and their Patagonian guests arrived in port to meet the Iivi community of Tasiilaq, on Greenland's eastern coast. Their host, Dines Mikaelsen, a local Indigenous leader who had previously served as mayor and now represents his community in the Greenlandic parliament, welcomed them. Alongside Dines, the delegation visited various sites in the town, including three youth projects: a skin crafting workshop, a bone, stone, and wood crafting workshop, and the tourist information office and museum of Tasiilaq. They later reboarded the vessel for a joint voyage between the Kawésqar and Iivi youth, accompanied by Dines and young hunter and navigator Ivik Ignatiussen aboard the Byr.

The voyage took them to the nearby fjords off Kulusuk Island, where the Kawésqar and Iivi youth, Captain Sigurður Jónsson of the Byr, and local leader Dines Mikaelsen took advantage of the tranquil sunset to kayak among the icebergs. For Pamela González, this was a completely new experience as she paddled in a kayak alongside her brother Francisco. That evening, the group shared stories, images, and cultural traditions in a touching and unforgettable evening for the crew and guests alike. On the morning of 14th August, the sailing vessel Byr took the group to the front of a massive glacier, where they enjoyed the scenery, spotting seals among the numerous icebergs, which were unusual for that time of year. While the Iivi youth entertained themselves by tying knots and repairing ropes aboard the vessel, Pamela displayed her skills by making macramé bracelets, which she later presented as gifts to the Iivi leaders and youth.

In the afternoon, once in Kulusuk, they visited the local museum and had a lively game on the sports field of the school. During this visit, the Kawésqar siblings were invited to share with over 35 students the following morning, where they offered a talk about Kawésqar culture. As a gesture of appreciation, they gifted canoes and rush baskets made in far-off Patagonia. Through this cultural exchange, the Kawésqar siblings learned a great deal about Inuit history and the Iivi population on Greenland's east coast. To conclude their journey, the hosts treated the visitors to a farewell dinner featuring minke whale, hunted for special occasions by the hunters of Kulusuk. This extraordinary and unique experience left a lasting impression on the visitors, who began their return journey on the afternoon of 15th August from Kulusuk airport.

The Pueblo Kawésqar Foundation extends its heartfelt gratitude to Annukka Pekkarinen, Sigurður Jónsson, and the Iivi community for their warm hospitality and organisation of this unforgettable experience. Furthermore, it is announced that a documentary narrating this journey aboard the sailing vessel Byr, in which the Iivi and Kawésqar youth shared their experiences and visions for the future in a constantly changing world, will be released in November 2024.

Fotografía: Isley Reust